![]() ![]() Italy was also able to produce its own dyes, a product that added to the luxury quality of their fabrics. Silk, as mentioned above, wool, and cotton all served as important raw materials and exports for Italian commerce. Textiles and art became the staple products of Italy. ![]() In one way, Italy became self sufficient in various sectors of trade and production. No longer was there a dependence on foreign goods or raw materials. Paper, glass, ceramics, and silks were all items that were beginning to be produced domestically. Soon, however, Italy became a center for its own production of desirable products.Īs Goldthwaite mentions, as time wore on, Italy began to produce its own versions of the luxury goods imported from the Near East. Serving as the middleman, Italy was able to profit from the goods produced in faraway lands. They profited from taking control of the Mediterranean. Italy served as the leader in trade with the Near East and, later on, the Ottoman Empire. All of these areas were involved in international trade, luxury good production, and involvement in foreign affairs. There was no center of commerce, trade, or law, and because of this, Italy was able to profit from sporting several hubs of business and exchange. Florence was the seat of a republic Naples was a monarchy, Milan a princedom, and Venice a combination of oligarchy and republic. Unlike nations such as England and Spain, Italy was split into various political and governmental regions. Looking at Italy as our geographic focal point, there are several advances in the economic prosperity of the land in the late middle ages, specifically in the years between 13. The changes in fashion are importantly connected to the state of the economy. I conclude with discussing the basic ideals of women’s roles and the ideal of the female body as a context for the clothing that they wore. ![]() I look at the economy of the time, the laws and political structures (specifically of Italy and England), and Church opinion as sources of influence for the change in fashion. Through research, it seems that scholars are simply interested in what the fashion looked like, and not necessarily the cause behind its formation. My main area of interest focuses on the reason for these quick and drastic changes in fashion. Tight lacing and corseting is also an element of women’s fashion of this time period. This gown replaces the form-fitting cote-hardie. įashion seems to change once again in the 15 th century with the introduction of the houppelande, a gown featuring a higher waistline, a v-neck, and tubular sleeves. Women were also depicted exhibiting a slouched posture. Headdress became increasingly lavish, an increase of color use on clothing was apparent, and a hairless look – high hairline and plucked eyebrows – was popular. These would also feature decorative buttons, and in some cases, even fur. Sideless surcoats would be placed over the cote-hardie or kirtle, exposing the tight fitting garment beneath it through its wide armholes. The décolletage was quite low, and was often criticized: “a gown open thus at the neck seems like the hole of a privy.” īy the mid-14 th century, streamers, also known as tippets, were beginning to appear on the cote-hardie, or low-necked, tight fitting, often dagged edged gowns. This aesthetic also proved to be inspiration from the garments of the Muslim world, as the crusades helped to expose the continent to new and foreign cultures. ![]() Buttons also allowed for garments to cling more closely to the skin, especially in the tight sleeves of the kirtle. Buttons became more widely used, and served as an important piece of ornamentation. By a quarter of the way into the century, however, women’s fashion began to feature a better cut and a closer fit. Long ceremonial garments seemed to be the norm for women of the age. The 14 th century emerges similarly to those before it. Some fashion historians have referred to this period as the beginning of western fashion and the birth of tailoring. For centuries the style remained relatively similar, but as soon as the 14 th century hits, drastic changes can be witnessed. The changing of silhouette in women’s fashion is immediately apparent when looking at a timeline of the middle ages. Long, draping, formless garments give way to tighter, more form fitting women’s dress. Images from the Luttrell Psalter (14th Century) and the Queen Mary Psalter (14th Century) ![]()
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